[[I’ve finally blogged a somewhat polished piece of nonfiction. I wrote it initially in December as I tried to come to terms with leaving New York. Yes, it’s long, but it’s more thought-out than a fluffy blog post — give it a read.]]
TAPPING HEELS
On the Airtrain, next to the disgruntled business man, the jetlagged Italian family, the Delta employee, the confused Midwesterners, I’ve arrived. The escalator lowering me to the ticketing counters; the TSA agents asking for ID, examining the hologram on my California driver’s license with a magnifying glass; removing my shoes first, grabbing an extra bin for my laptop, and sending my belongings through the x-ray machine, it’s all soothing habit, it’s all a going-through-the-motions that lulls me. I keep my credit card, photo ID and boarding pass in my pocket so I can grab them easily when asked. I pace myself. I know the rhythms of this pulsing, coursing junction. I trot down the “Expert Traveler” line at security, rolling leopard print suitcase in tow, because after three and a half years of cross-country back and forth I can and will tell you about every nook, every store, every vending machine, every nuance in the JetBlue terminal at JFK.
It is only at the airport that I begin to feel at home.
It wasn’t always like this. Once, traveling was mysterious, not commonplace. Once, traveling was a luxury, not a task. This was back when traveling meant first class seats and Hawaii and Radio Disney on my airline-provided headphones and my feet not touching the floor as I awaited take off. Traveling was window seats because I wanted to see the clouds, not aisle seats because I wanted to pace. Traveling wasn’t worrying about how I’d get to the airport for my 7am flight – it was my grandparents hiring a limo driver to pick us up from home and whisk us away to the airport. Security was an opaque, formalized system that I could not comprehend. Checking a bag was standard, not inconvenient. Traveling was a group outing brimming with memories, not an isolating journey back towards the arms of those I love. I liked to travel. And I didn’t mind airports.
My father, however, had a different perspective. Airports were where his soul went to die. Bumper-to-bumper traffic on the way to the airport. Flight delays. Being snowed in at Dulles. Food poisoning from a poorly plated in-flight meal. Fellow travelers hacking out flu germs into the air. A passenger seated next to him wearing a ski mask for no apparent reason. Crying babies. Crying adults.
My dad traveled for work, making grueling 48 hour round trips, sleeping in barren hotel rooms, subsisting off Doritos and mixed nuts alone. He hated airports. They were the preamble to days of company-funded misery. He could expense out all his travel purchases, but could never get back the hours spent dragging his feet through endless lay overs and red eyes. As a six-year-old, I couldn’t understand why my dad didn’t like going to LAX: But Daddy, when we go there they give us food and we go to Hawaii!! And we go in a limo! But I “didn’t understand” because I “didn’t travel out of obligation.” I suppose that’s why when I decided to attend NYU, my father gleefully listed the hell I was bound to endure:
“There will be miserable flight delays.”
“Get used to awful food.”
“You’ll probably end up sleeping on the floor in airports, waiting for your flight.”
“You’ll get sick. All the time.”
“Forget ever having an arm rest to yourself.”
He’d stare off into the distance, pursing his lips, shaking his head, thinking about the airport.
“Those poor bastards stuck there right now…”
Excited by the prospect of no curfew and New York City, I was unfazed and blindly optimistic. While traveling home from NYU’s summer freshman orientation, I experienced my first Oh shit I’m going to miss my flight! moment. Sprinting through the airport, I felt the kind of invincibility that’s common in people my age, too young to assume the worst. Adrenaline carried my legs and carry-on bag to the boarding gate. I made my flight, feeling accomplished, amped and out of breath, plopping down to my seat with a fine sheen of sweat across my forehead.
This isn’t that bad, I thought to myself.
Well into my career at NYU, once I wasn’t running past all that my terminal had to offer, I realized I actually liked airport. A little city, JFK was self-contained and plentiful – food, books, shopping, television, attractive guys, purse dogs. At airports, I argued, time, money and responsibility don’t exist. Your only obligation is to get your body in a seat when an announcement is made on an intercom. Everything else is nonreality. As I turned my watch back at JFK, I rested in a strange state of three-hours-behind-but-three-hours-ahead, straddling both eastern and pacific time zones. I was somewhere yet nowhere, neither in New York, nor in LA.
The airport is a place of unplaceness, a location that – though on a map – isn’t defined by its own coordinates, but rather by the coordinates of where you are traveling to. At the airport, you have left life behind and you have life in front of you, but for a few hours you exist in limbo — homeless in your airport home, eating snack packs and reading rag-mags and falling asleep on your carry-on bag. You exist somewhere in between.
New York, the place of all places, the city that technically hosts JFK, stood as a contradiction in my heart. New York and I were failing one another, and I could never grasp it like I could the handle of my rolling suitcase.The airport, though, meant home was on the horizon. It was the kind of metropolis I could grip and understand . With Manhattan and all of its complexities a forty-five minute cab ride away, the airport was the one place I felt I could be mine. It gave me the comfort of home before I’d even set weary foot on Los Angeles soil.
Though I’d moved to New York with bright-eyed enthusiasm, I didn’t meet the standards of the archetype I’d been painting myself to be. I was supposed to love New York because I spoke quickly and with scathing wit; I was supposed to love New York because I wore all black and possessed a level of independence that my other friends could not understand; I was supposed to fall for New York like the man of my dreams, marry him and have three kids. Start a life, start a something, and make it permanent.
So, I was a believer with a virginal track record of airline miles. I believed in this determined future, this destined romance with the dirty streets of New York. I was to be the brunette Carrie Bradshaw, navigating the city and complex romantic relationships with pen in one hand, the other hailing a cab. I was to fall in love with New York like the shirts say in Chinatown.
But by the end of my freshman year at NYU, I wasn’t hoping for more time with my metropolitan beau, but rather longing for the airport, for the spring that would catapult me back towards the west coast. I was surviving in NYC – blossoming, even — but I couldn’t connect with the city. New York was the man I’d lie in bed next to, staring at the ceiling, wondering Why isn’t this working? Is it something I said? I could not understand the city and its vast cultural intricacies. I could not navigate my way through all the boroughs, I could not connect with the sidewalks and feel warm, even after winter had passed. The expansiveness intimidated me, making me feel smaller than I already was at five foot two. Friends and fellow NYU students laid claim to New York – “This is my city,” they said. I never felt like I owned New York. I didn’t even feel like I was renting. I was subletting the city like somebody else’s home only to return the keys each time the wheels of my Jetblue plane lifted from the tarmac.
At one of the shops in the JetBlue terminal, I eyeballed big bags of sugar-coated candy and noticed next to the snacks an assortment of “New York City souvenirs”: Empire State buildings the size of my index finger, snow globe’d skylines, the Statue of Liberty on key chains. It was late November, and I was coming to the close of my time at NYU – I had mere weeks till my early graduation. I picked up the snow globe and shook, watching big chunks of salt-like snow drift gently back down over hand painted buildings. The snow globe didn’t look like New York and was littered with geographic typos, but it was trying to do what I had been trying to do for years – somehow allow New York to be held within my hands.
But, airport souvenirs are notoriously unauthentic. At the shops, vendors try to sell you what are assumed to be the integral elements of a city that is already so far away from JFK in Jamaica, Queens that you can barely make out the shapes of Manhattan buildings, even on a clear day. They are selling to the tourists who neglected a distant family member during city shopping sprees. They are selling you New York during your last footstep in the city. They are selling you New York not from New York itself but from the transition out of New York. They are selling you New York so far away from the reality of the city that the glaring abnormalities of Lady Liberty’s crown leave you not up in arms, but feeling defeated before your flight.
With the snow globe in my hand, I checked my watch. A storm was approaching New York, the kind of storm that dumps snow for days and days, blanketing the city in a thick coat of white. I didn’t know if I’d make it out of JFK and get to LA in time. I’d seen the news clips of people sleeping at the airport – living at the airport – and I realized I did not want to be them. Where would I sleep? Where would I charge my this-or-that electronic device? Are any of these restaurants open late for us hungry night owls? What about the bathrooms?
Departing flights on the giant screens within the terminal were getting cancelled swiftly and without real warning. Travelers slung profanity-laced insults at tired airline employees. People stretched out on stiff seats near their gates, feet dangling off the sides, heads resting on Jansports or bunched up scarves. I didn’t want to stay here. I wanted to go home – to my real home.
I’d always assumed the airport felt like home because I’d come to know it – but how could a place that only hosts me for an hour or two ever be a home? It was an illusion, I was beginning to realize. I encountered the same problem with NYC where I also faced time limits – a limited undergraduate career left me still scrambling to embrace the biggest city in the United States after a mere three and a half years of residing beneath its expansive skyline. It felt impossible. I could make nooks within New York my home – Union Square, the blocks around my apartment, Washington Square Park – but in the end, there would always be an avenue a few blocks away that remained unchartered, always a restaurant I never ate at, always a train I hadn’t taken, always a borough with more to give. New York would remain elusive, even as I drifted through its sidewalk veins.
JFK was not a home, but rather a reminder that home – Los Angeles — was just hours away. The airport rituals were soothing, but with a storm on the horizon, I remembered how uncomfortable it is to call the airport home against your wishes, to be caught in limbo between places. I wanted to get on the plane and get out of the holiday insanity surging through JFK. The last chunks of snow settled back onto the faux New York skyline, the snow globe glistening with fluorescent light. Like a call from the God of Travel, my flight’s boarding was announced and I set the snow globe back down, jogging towards my gate.
On the plane, we waited for the wings to be de-iced before taking off. I stared out my thick window, my feet finally touching the floor, traveling alone as I now always did. Squinting to see the city lights one more time, New York seemed easier to understand from afar. But my window faced westward, towards my palm tree’d home, and I could see nothing but limbo. I tell myself I’ll come back, I tell myself that I can make New York home in the years to come – just not right now. It’s the kind of self-deception that calms me as the plane taxis on the runway, about to jet away from the land of “supposed to.”
Perhaps it wasn’t about finding home in New York – perhaps it was about understanding my relationship with location instead. To hold a location within one’s hands is to believe that that is even possible – it’s like a snow globe naively telling us that New York is just a few tall buildings painted with bright colors. In reality, our hands are too small, our grip too weak to hold a city. I was only now beginning to grasp the thought, but even that slipped out through my fingers.
The cabin crew lowered the lights. Everyone settled in with magazines, headphones, snacks and sleep. I strained my neck to catch a glimpse of New York through another window, but couldn’t find the specks of light in the distance. New York was already gone. I hugged my knees to my chest, lacing my fingers together as best I could, and held myself – the traveling girl – in my hands.
We prepared for takeoff, and crossed the in between again.